I stood in line waiting to have my turn at the serving table.
My mind was in places, working to come up with appropriate illustrations for
the mid-morning teaching session after the break.
We were at one of the upscale hotels in Fort Portal, a town
situated approximately 300 kilometers west of Kampala the capital city of
Uganda. It is a beautiful town—cool weather, gently rolling hills and
easy-going people. From anywhere in the town, one can easily see the Rwenzori
mountain range in the distance and if you are not too pressed for time, a drive
to Bundibugyo 70 kilometers away further west will bring you to the foot of
these breathtaking ranges that stretch across the impressive distance of over 120
kilometers.
In front of me was one of the participants at the training
workshop we were conducting for a team of community leaders from the Bundibugyo
Area Development Program of World Vision Uganda. If I remembered correctly, his
name was Joseph. Always smartly dressed and well-spoken, he was no stranger to
me as we had interacted informally at previous workshops. As we neared the
table, he turned to me and started to make small talk, asking about how the
training sessions were progressing for me as a trainer. I indulged him for a
while and before long, it was our turn at the tea table.
There were three giant thermos flasks with labels that read “milk
tea”, “milk” and “hot water”. There was also a tribe of beverages to choose
from which included tea, drinking chocolate, instant coffee, soy coffee and
several others I would not be too bothered to sample. I had already decided
that I was going to make myself a cup of strong coffee to give me some kick and
help me combat the drowsiness that I was beginning to feel. Teaching can be a
draining job and I had been at it for four consecutive days.
As I was stirring my mug of coffee, Joseph was busy adding
spoonfuls of chocolate powder to his milk. Almost casually, he asked me a
question that caught me flat—footed and set me thinking in a whole new
direction. “Teacher, what is this?” he asked as he scooped more chocolate from
the tin labeled “Cadbury drinking chocolate”.
The question caught me off-guard mainly because it seemed to
me trivial and misplaced at that time in that hotel lobby. But as my tired brain
slowly digested it, its implication struck me like a blow and jolted me back to
life.
Basing on my secondary school geography/agricultural lessons
and from what I had read up on the subject here and there, I could clearly remember
that chocolate is processed from the cocoa plant. The cocoa pods are harvested
from the cacao tree growing mainly in countries in the narrow belt 10ºN and
10ºS of the Equator, where the climate favors them to no end. The largest
producing countries of this much sought—after crop are Côte d'Ivoire, Ghana and
Indonesia.
West Africa and the Indian Ocean aside, I also knew that Joseph
hailed from the Bundibugyo region, an area famed for growing cocoa as its
number one cash crop. No homestead in this part of the country is complete
without numerous plants of the cacao tree strewn across its gardens. Trade in
cocoa has educated the children of Bundibugyo, built imposing mansions,
constructed schools, sparked endless feuds, been responsible for lavish
weddings, and made many well-intentioned folk polygamous.
It is that lucrative, and divisive.
I frowned in complete bewilderment at Joseph and at what I
thought was his simplistic question, and informed him that the dark brown
powder was called cocoa. His face quickly became a picture of complete shock as
his mind digested this latest piece of information. I think it was the word
“cocoa” that triggered him off. “You mean to say it is the same cocoa that we grow back at home?” I
replied in the affirmative and all he could do was look down and slowly shake
his head. He was clearly baffled by this new knowledge. It would seem that my
answer had caused him to experience a total paradigm shift.
The irony of this seemingly mundane episode could not be
lost on me. Here was this well-intentioned gentleman enjoying the luxury of a
beverage made from a crop he grew in his backyard, a crop I was certain he
interacted with on a daily basis from when he was a child, but
blissfully ignorant of how it was inseparably connected to the beverage he was now
enjoying from the comfort of this hotel lobby.
As I walked back to my seat thoughtfully sipping from the now-tepid mug of coffee,
I silently shook my head at the absurdity of the whole situation. I was certain
that from Joseph’s perspective prior to our little chat, the chocolate powder in these fancy tins was an
exotic beverage imported into the country for the luxurious indulgence of the
well-to-do who could afford to sleep in this hotel.
For the life of him, and except for that fateful question he
asked me innocently, he probably would never have been able to relate this
sweet brown powder to the golden—brown pods that hung from the cacao trees in
his gardens back at home, that the pods gave birth to the said powder.
Mother and Child!
And I thought, what a pity that from the perspective of Joseph,
the child was completely unknown to its mother. He grew the crop, harvested it
year in year out, sold it to some middle men who in turn sold it to some other higher-middle men, who then aided it on its elite journey to Cadbury’s state—of—the—art
factories in Singapore, and onward to Tasmania and Victoria (even Kenya and the
rest of the world) where it was processed, packed in those fancy, shiny tins
and eventually re-exported to Uganda.
Here it was distributed to various supermarket chains and up—market
hotels in places like Fort Portal so that during one random training seminar there, the likes of Joseph tasted the beverage with their milk and discovered for the first time that the tree which birthed this exotic powder grew in their plantations back home. Imagine the odds!
His could have been an isolated case of a child’s lack of
knowledge of its mother, and I honestly hoped it was but I knew in my heart
of hearts that I was wrong and that my hope was but a sham.
A few months later, I made a trip to the town of Bundibugyo.
Everywhere I passed, there were these cacao trees in full bloom, laden with
their unmistakable golden brown and maroon colored cocoa pods. At the Ntandi village cocoa cooperative union, I met a
gentleman who was weighing out a sack of dry cocoa beans, all nicely fermented and
ready to be sold to a waiting middle-man. I engaged him in conversation and asked him
what the beans were used for. He gave me a blank stare like I had requested him for directions to Mars. He blurted out “I do
not know”.
My heart silently wept at my government’s 30-year ineptitude
to build modern infrastructure for value-addition to agricultural produce, and by
extension, its active participation in the hypocrisy and sheer robbery of
capitalism.
Walking through a peaceful cacao plantation on an overcast
morning the next day, birds chirping cheerily in the sky, I stopped by a tree
with three beautiful maroon cocoa pods. Pointing my camera lens at them, they seemed
to look straight back and smile at me. With no premeditation, I smiled back, clicked
away some more and waved to them as I walked off thinking: Mothers deserve to know their
children, anything less is an affront to and a rape of their dignity.
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My Three Maroon Friends |
And you should stay true to your children son, paper and pen!
ReplyDeleteThank you sir. I have returned..
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